REMOTE TUNING AND CALIBRATION BREAK DOWN! - 11/15/2021
Thank you for your purchase!
Please send me your AP information, and a copy of the File that you are currently using on your vehicle.
To do this, you need to connect the AP to your computer. Open up AP manager, and click on “AP INFO”. Take a photo (or screenshot) of the screen that pops up, and reply to this email with it.
Please make sure it is updated to the latest firmware, and the AP serial number can be seen clearly.
Mk6 owners, pay attention to map selection for the MAF.
If you are running another company’s file currently, we can’t use that file.
Help video can be found here:
https://youtu.be/ObfoXOlVOmk
Maps are sent in 24-72 hours (weekends not included) depending on workload. Files and logs are processed as they are received. If you have not received one after that time frame has passed, do not hesitate to contact me by any means necessary.
Please also send me year/make/model and current modifications installed on the car, and what fuel type you are going to be running/tuning for. Failure to do this will cause a delay.
It is advised to have the following done before flashing or tuning at all:
Check wastegate base voltage. This can be done with an OBD11, suggested voltage is 3.5-3.6v.
Wastegate Adaptation, this can be done with your Cobb AP
Fresh spark plugs-----no exception, Minimum one heat range colder, gap set to 0.020-0.022. We exclusively recommend Brisk ER12s for Mk7s, NGK BKR7e for Mk6s for most setups. If misfires persist after, then start with fresh coils as life of them seems to be a lottery.
Boost leak test via pressure and soapy water----smoke tests do not count. Plenty of ways to do this, using basic parts from any hardware store and a fair sized compressor. Leaks will cause premature turbo failure from overspeed, and poor performance.
If you are running ethanol, it is advised you purchase a testing device, such as a QuickFuel 36-E85QFT. More elaborate devices such as an Innovate MTX-D 3904 that give real time data are the best solution.
Run Top Tier fuel when possible, such as Shell, Mobil etc.
Logging Guide:
Unless directed otherwise, Cobb Default variables, 3000-6500rpm 3rd gear. Lists are below for reference. Youtube link for reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIo6tqFtA3w
Ensure its a smooth road
Cannot have any wheelspin of any sort, as this will skew data.
If something does not feel right LOG IT if possible and let off, contact me right away. Do not continue to 'test it', problems dont fix themselves.
Flashing check engine lights are indicative of misfires, Let off immediately. Failing injectors or ignition faults are typical causes, and both will cause catastrophic engine failure if not addressed.
MQB Logging List
•AFR
•AFR Set Point
•Accel Pedal Position
•Air Mass Intake Manifold Per Stroke
•Air Mass Intake Manifold Set Point
•Air Mass Per Stroke Set Point
•Charge Air Temperature
•Boost Pressure
•Current Gear
•COBB Spark Reduction
•Driver Requested Torque
•Engine Speed
•Exhaust Cam Position
•FFS State
•HPFP Effective Pump Volume
•Ignition Timing Final
•Intake Cam Position
•Injection Time Primary Pulse Average
•Intake Flap Set Point
•Knock Retard Cylinder 1
•Knock Retard Cylinder 2
•Knock Retard Cylinder 3
•Knock Retard Cylinder 4
•LC State
•LTFT
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 1
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 2
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 3
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 4
•Maximum Torque at Clutch
•Maximum Turbo Speed Set Point
•PUT Set Point
•Pressure Upstream Throttle
•Rail Pressure
•Rail Pressure Set Point
•STFT
•TPS
•Torque Actual
•Torque Limitation Source
•Torque Maximum Clutch
•Torque Maximum Engine
•Torque Value for Air Mass Set Point
•Turbine Actuator Final Value
•Turbo Shaft Speed
•Valve Lift State
•Wastegate Mass Flow Set Point
MK6 Logging List
• AFR
• AFR Commanded (Final)
• Accelerator Pedal Position
• Boost Pressure
• Cam Angle Actual
• Coolant Temp.
• ETC Angle (Actual)
• ETC Angle (Target)
• FFS State
• Ignition Timing (Final)
• IAT,
• Knock Retard Cyl 1
• Knock Retard Cyl 2
• Knock Retard Cyl. 3
• Knock Retard Cyl. 4
• LC State
• Load Actual
• Load Request (Max)
• Long Term Fuel Trim
• MAF
• Mileage
• RPM
• Rail Pressure Actual
• Rail Pressure Commanded
• Short Term Fuel Trim
• Target Filling
• Target Boost Pressure
• Tumble Flap Position
• WGDC
• WGDC Target (Modeled)
Misc Notes for common concerns:
Do not go WOT on a low tank of fuel, more than once someone has complained of the car cutting out but have 2 gallons of fuel in the tank
Mk6s are prone to leaks, newest ones are 6-7 years old. If peak MAF data is under 190g/s or over 205 g/s (stock turbo), chances are good something is off. LTFT will also be askew, outside of .97 to 1.04 (you can use your gauge function to see this) would warrant verifying hardware integrity.
Stock clutch or DSG tune, please tell me so I can tune accordingly.
If you have something besides stock pressure sensors, tell me or else its assumed the car has stock ones and it will not run well or at all.
Dont make back to back 60-130 pulls or anything of that nature, let the car cool off and take it easy for a few minutes. Abuse the car, and it will abuse you, this has nothing to do with tuning.
Be receptive if something isnt right, try to make a mental note on RPM, throttle pos, boost etc. The more you tell me, the easier it is for me to figure it out.
Cobb Gauges are great. Boost, AFR, Knock 1-2-3-4 are a good place to start.
Mk7s model (no actual sensor) Charge Temps, its pre intercooler and will be absurdly high. If you want to know why, Ideal Gas Law will illustrate this.
Injectors shut off when you let off the throttle, so seeing very very high AFR/Lambda values is nothing to be concerned about and typical behavior for every EFI car.
Colder range spark plugs are not a suggestion, I cannot emphasize that enough. They transfer heat to the cylinder heat more efficiently. Plug gap is equally important, higher cylinder pressures require more spark energy to cross the gap itself, and coil capability to do is finite. VAG pencil coils have sucked for 25 years, they need all the help they can get
The only dumb question is the one not asked, so fire away. What I have learned over the years is from hundreds of cars, so theres a solid chance I have experienced already what you are dealing with, scratched my head and solved it.
Thanks,
SneekyTuned
Attachments area
Preview YouTube video How to Import/Export files for Cobb and get AP Info.
How to Import/Export files for Cobb and get AP Info.
Preview YouTube video COBB Tuning - How to Datalog with an APv3
COBB Tuning - How to Datalog with an APv3
Please send me your AP information, and a copy of the File that you are currently using on your vehicle.
To do this, you need to connect the AP to your computer. Open up AP manager, and click on “AP INFO”. Take a photo (or screenshot) of the screen that pops up, and reply to this email with it.
Please make sure it is updated to the latest firmware, and the AP serial number can be seen clearly.
Mk6 owners, pay attention to map selection for the MAF.
If you are running another company’s file currently, we can’t use that file.
Help video can be found here:
https://youtu.be/ObfoXOlVOmk
Maps are sent in 24-72 hours (weekends not included) depending on workload. Files and logs are processed as they are received. If you have not received one after that time frame has passed, do not hesitate to contact me by any means necessary.
Please also send me year/make/model and current modifications installed on the car, and what fuel type you are going to be running/tuning for. Failure to do this will cause a delay.
It is advised to have the following done before flashing or tuning at all:
Check wastegate base voltage. This can be done with an OBD11, suggested voltage is 3.5-3.6v.
Wastegate Adaptation, this can be done with your Cobb AP
Fresh spark plugs-----no exception, Minimum one heat range colder, gap set to 0.020-0.022. We exclusively recommend Brisk ER12s for Mk7s, NGK BKR7e for Mk6s for most setups. If misfires persist after, then start with fresh coils as life of them seems to be a lottery.
Boost leak test via pressure and soapy water----smoke tests do not count. Plenty of ways to do this, using basic parts from any hardware store and a fair sized compressor. Leaks will cause premature turbo failure from overspeed, and poor performance.
If you are running ethanol, it is advised you purchase a testing device, such as a QuickFuel 36-E85QFT. More elaborate devices such as an Innovate MTX-D 3904 that give real time data are the best solution.
Run Top Tier fuel when possible, such as Shell, Mobil etc.
Logging Guide:
Unless directed otherwise, Cobb Default variables, 3000-6500rpm 3rd gear. Lists are below for reference. Youtube link for reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?
Ensure its a smooth road
Cannot have any wheelspin of any sort, as this will skew data.
If something does not feel right LOG IT if possible and let off, contact me right away. Do not continue to 'test it', problems dont fix themselves.
Flashing check engine lights are indicative of misfires, Let off immediately. Failing injectors or ignition faults are typical causes, and both will cause catastrophic engine failure if not addressed.
MQB Logging List
•AFR
•AFR Set Point
•Accel Pedal Position
•Air Mass Intake Manifold Per Stroke
•Air Mass Intake Manifold Set Point
•Air Mass Per Stroke Set Point
•Charge Air Temperature
•Boost Pressure
•Current Gear
•COBB Spark Reduction
•Driver Requested Torque
•Engine Speed
•Exhaust Cam Position
•FFS State
•HPFP Effective Pump Volume
•Ignition Timing Final
•Intake Cam Position
•Injection Time Primary Pulse Average
•Intake Flap Set Point
•Knock Retard Cylinder 1
•Knock Retard Cylinder 2
•Knock Retard Cylinder 3
•Knock Retard Cylinder 4
•LC State
•LTFT
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 1
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 2
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 3
•Mass Flow Limit for Torque Intervention 4
•Maximum Torque at Clutch
•Maximum Turbo Speed Set Point
•PUT Set Point
•Pressure Upstream Throttle
•Rail Pressure
•Rail Pressure Set Point
•STFT
•TPS
•Torque Actual
•Torque Limitation Source
•Torque Maximum Clutch
•Torque Maximum Engine
•Torque Value for Air Mass Set Point
•Turbine Actuator Final Value
•Turbo Shaft Speed
•Valve Lift State
•Wastegate Mass Flow Set Point
MK6 Logging List
• AFR
• AFR Commanded (Final)
• Accelerator Pedal Position
• Boost Pressure
• Cam Angle Actual
• Coolant Temp.
• ETC Angle (Actual)
• ETC Angle (Target)
• FFS State
• Ignition Timing (Final)
• IAT,
• Knock Retard Cyl 1
• Knock Retard Cyl 2
• Knock Retard Cyl. 3
• Knock Retard Cyl. 4
• LC State
• Load Actual
• Load Request (Max)
• Long Term Fuel Trim
• MAF
• Mileage
• RPM
• Rail Pressure Actual
• Rail Pressure Commanded
• Short Term Fuel Trim
• Target Filling
• Target Boost Pressure
• Tumble Flap Position
• WGDC
• WGDC Target (Modeled)
Misc Notes for common concerns:
Do not go WOT on a low tank of fuel, more than once someone has complained of the car cutting out but have 2 gallons of fuel in the tank
Mk6s are prone to leaks, newest ones are 6-7 years old. If peak MAF data is under 190g/s or over 205 g/s (stock turbo), chances are good something is off. LTFT will also be askew, outside of .97 to 1.04 (you can use your gauge function to see this) would warrant verifying hardware integrity.
Stock clutch or DSG tune, please tell me so I can tune accordingly.
If you have something besides stock pressure sensors, tell me or else its assumed the car has stock ones and it will not run well or at all.
Dont make back to back 60-130 pulls or anything of that nature, let the car cool off and take it easy for a few minutes. Abuse the car, and it will abuse you, this has nothing to do with tuning.
Be receptive if something isnt right, try to make a mental note on RPM, throttle pos, boost etc. The more you tell me, the easier it is for me to figure it out.
Cobb Gauges are great. Boost, AFR, Knock 1-2-3-4 are a good place to start.
Mk7s model (no actual sensor) Charge Temps, its pre intercooler and will be absurdly high. If you want to know why, Ideal Gas Law will illustrate this.
Injectors shut off when you let off the throttle, so seeing very very high AFR/Lambda values is nothing to be concerned about and typical behavior for every EFI car.
Colder range spark plugs are not a suggestion, I cannot emphasize that enough. They transfer heat to the cylinder heat more efficiently. Plug gap is equally important, higher cylinder pressures require more spark energy to cross the gap itself, and coil capability to do is finite. VAG pencil coils have sucked for 25 years, they need all the help they can get
The only dumb question is the one not asked, so fire away. What I have learned over the years is from hundreds of cars, so theres a solid chance I have experienced already what you are dealing with, scratched my head and solved it.
Thanks,
SneekyTuned
Attachments area
Preview YouTube video How to Import/Export files for Cobb and get AP Info.
How to Import/Export files for Cobb and get AP Info.
Preview YouTube video COBB Tuning - How to Datalog with an APv3
COBB Tuning - How to Datalog with an APv3